W/S Black Label - Trinity Candle Holder (Brass)
The versatile Trinity candleholder is a minimalist & stylish take on the honeycomb cell. It is designed to hold Bee Light candles, Dinner Taper candles and our Tosca candles (as used by Opera Australia for their production of Tosca)
Presented in our stunning Black Label packaging, the box contains
1 x Brass Trinity candleholder; and
1 x 30cm Dinner candle; and
1 x Bee Lights
so that you can fire it up immediately and enjoy the luxury of bee created light.
Made in Sydney, Australia.
This candle holder is for use with our Bee Lights, Dinner Candles and Tosca Candles.
Due to the narrow width of these candles they have no minimum burn time. You can burn them for as long or as short a period as you would like.
All candles, pure beeswax or toxic, need to be burned until the pool of wax reaches the outside edge! It’s an immutable law of physics. This is a requirement every (ish) time you light your candle.
There is no need with a beeswax candle to put it out once it reaches the outside edge, it should just continue to burn beautifully, without dripping, emitting a light honey aroma and a gorgeous warm ambience.
If you’re looking for candles for yoga, meditation, a relaxing bath, kids dinner, bedtime story or any activity that goes for less than a couple of hours, these are the candles for you.
A tealight candle should be burned in one sitting.
We know that with the price of beeswax candles being more than their toxic cousins, many of our customers would prefer to burn tealights over a couple of evenings, so… here’s the rub… (you may need a coffee)!
A tealight candle has a wick that is held up by a metal ‘sustainer’. That sustainer has a 3mm neck holding the wick upright.
If you burn your tealight candle down so that there is say 4 – 5mm of wax remaining in the bottom of the cup, that means there is only 1 – 2mm of unburnt wick sticking out the top of the metal sustainer neck. That is not enough wick to burn out to the edge and consume all of the beeswax remaining in the cup.
So, if you want to burn your tealights over multiple sessions please ensure there is a MINIMUM of 6mm of beeswax in the bottom of the tealight cup (that’s around ½ the height of the 4-5hour tealight cup and just over 1/3 of the height of the 8-9hour tealight cup).
If you play your cards right, this should mean that you can get a couple of nights out of a 4 – 5 hour tealight and 3 evenings out of an 8 – 9 hour tealight. BOOM!
- Putting a candle into a glass vessel multiplies the light emitted by the candle many times over.
Curved glass (like a fishbowl) will achieve a better result than straight sided glass because the flame is reflected from many angles. Any glass is better than no glass!
- Always allow your candle to burn to the outside edge. As some sage physicist said at some stage in the past “if you don’t allow your candle to burn out to the edge, it won’t burn out to the edge.”
- When putting out a pillar candle, use the end of any poker type object (we use the bottom of a pen) to dunk the wick into the molten wax pool and then ensure you lift it out again and re-centre the wick. This stops the wick from smoking (and keeps the wick strong).
Before you relight a pillar candle, always trim the wick to 7mm or so (a little shorter than a centimeter)… if you dipped your wick to put the candle out, it will be coated with wax that has now gone cold so you should be able to trim the wick with your fingertips without getting soot on them!
ANY taper will drip in a breeze – be it beeswax, paraffin or even the chemically hardened petrochemical ‘non-drip’ taper candles. Having said that a beeswax candle is the least likely to drip due to its high melting point.
If you want to make sure your Dinner Taper or Bee Light candles don’t drip, keep them out of any breeze or air movement. If the flame is dancing, then the air around the wick is moving and the candles will drip. Sometimes all you may need to do is move your candle 10cm to the left or right and that will fix the problem
If your table is in the centre of a breezy room, you may just need to think of candles like plants… some plants like full sun and some like shade. If you don’t want to waste your money, then observe this! Likewise, some candles cope with a breeze (Tealights, Round Votives, Solid Pillars) and others don’t (Yapers & Bee Lights), so choose the right candle/s for the right location.
- We recommend always burning a candle on a fire safe and heat proof surface. Ceramic, tile, mirror plate, glass, marble… should all be heat proof (unless they have a special finish on them in which case check first). Never burn a candle directly on to a timber surface.
- Think about where your candle flame is going to be when you light the candle and ensure there is nothing that can come into contact with the flame (loose paper, curtains or anything else flammable).
- Think about candle safety when you’re setting a dinner table… leave enough room between the candles to allow your guests to pass dishes and drinks without burning themselves or knocking the candles over.
- Every child is different, so it is up to you whether it is appropriate to teach your child about fire or not and at what age. If you’re worried about fire safety around kids, think about putting the candles in a holder with a wide flat base (like a vase or fishbowl) and either keeping them out of reach, or, better still, educating the kids not to touch them while they’re burning.
We have had hundreds of customers over the years who have told us that they have taught their kids that when the candles are lit in the evening it is ‘quiet time’… dinner, bath & bed.
You would be hard pressed to find any metal candleholders made commercially in Australia these days…. Let alone candleholders of our quality made from solid brass or copper.
We are focused at Queen B of making a difference in everything we do and supporting other Australian crafts people practice their ancient skills of metal bending and mental turning is something that we are incredibly proud to do. We celebrate their skills.